Munich Day 1: Yay, Bier!

Munich was one of Britton’s and my favorite stops on our honeymoon in 2012, so we were excited for the opportunity to share it with his parents while they're visiting.

We are traveling during Christmas so I was looking forward to catching the tail end of Germany's famous Christmas markets. I got a glimpse of these in Oslo, and London has several, but Germany is where it's at! (The origin of seemingly all things Christmas.)

We landed around six, checked in with our Airbnb and grabbed some food at the Iraqi restaurant downstairs. (sehr gut!) It was one of only a handful of restaurants we saw still open as we walked from the Hautbanhopf to our lodging. (As we left I distinctly made note of a bakery within the train station still selling sandwiches, in case we needed to go back for food.) Also, I think we're staying in the red light district? Several topless posters as we walked along.

Anywho, the internet implied that most of the Christmas markets would already be closed by the time we landed, but I wanted to at least try to see one. So my husband, father-in-law and I headed out for a bit of exploring. We're staying just a ten-, maaaaaaaaybe fifteen minute walk from Marienplatz, so we headed thataway.

And the streets were So. Empty.

Granted, the last time I was here it was the height of tourist season so my base level is quite skewed. But between the Christmas Eve  holiday and being out of tourist season, I could practically dance in the streets.

On arriving at Marienplatz we found that the internet was indeed correct: the Christmas markets had closed up shop. But the plaza was still really beautiful, with lights and a huge tree outside the glockenspiel.

But not ready to turn in just yet, we dragged my FIL to the iconic Hofbrauhaus. The place was still packed at 9.30 Xmas Eve, full of drunk tourists and Germans alike. (At one point I sneezed and our tablemate, who hadn't previously acknowledged us said, in broken English, “bless you and Merry Christmas!” To which i replied, “what?” because it was really loud in there. She repeated “Merry Christmas”, and then giggled uncontrollably, which I think is how I would react if I'd just had an opportunity to practice Swahili… if Swahili were taught to every eighth grader in Missouri.)

But the Hofbrauhaus doesn't disappoint. It was rowdy and raucous and full of energy and biers. And also an ancient woman pushing what we think was a portable, wind up organ up and down the center aisle on a cart, with a Christmas tree sticking out the front at a 45 degree angle, wearing something that Britton dubbed a mix between Mrs Claus and Professor Umbridge. Mixed with the table banging, the glass smashing, and the occasional room-wide cheer, I wouldn't have wanted it any other way.

Merry Christmas, Munich. This is gonna be great.

Day One in Oslo: walking, seeing, trying, buying

Greetings from Oslo, Norway!

(Did you miss out on getting an Oslo postcard? You can still sign up to get one from Germany or Italy! Details here.)

It's cold and dark here — the sun set before 4pm! — but Oslo's not apologizing. It's being totally relaxed about it. And it should! It's quite charming, with Christmas decorations and lit-up pedestrian streets, it has taken charge of the darkness and made something that is constantly cozy. 

I took today to knock out a couple of standard Oslovian (my term) sights, including the Opera House, Karl Johans Gate Street and general exploration of Oslo's street life. I think I'm gonna like it here. 

First two photos: Opera House Roof. You can scale a set of steps (2nd photo) to explore all around the roof of this structure, built to resemble a ship in the water. 

Muggin' (check out those creases between my eyes from squinting into the sun so much! The sun is so low in the sky, the angle is like constant late-afternoon. But who cares BECAUSE OMG SUNNNN!!)

Inside is decorated for Christmas:

Christmas market — stalls selling handmade items and traditional foods. 

I tried Solbærtoddy, a traditional warm mulled wine. According to google translate the description reads, "mulled wine with cloves, cinnamon stick and cardamom, served with almonds and raisins." I did not get almonds or raisins with mine and I'm okay with that. 

Adorable Norwegian sign. The only thing I understand is "Nordpolen" — North Pole. Oooh, and I think Holmenkollen is the famous ski jump north of the city. Will hopefully see that tomorrow!

And I bought a new head warmer! I somehow managed to lose two sets of gloves and my hat over the last week -- sad face! -- so I legit needed this. I pinky promise. Plus it is SOOOO FLUFFAAAAY!

And finally, glittery and gleaming street decorations on my walk back to my Airbnb. (Where I am now, and where I am going to promptly pass out.) Big day tomorrow, too!